Me and Indy

Kir here - greetings to all from the special administrative region of Macau!

I arrived in Macau this evening after a day of air travel. My first flight today was fun, because I met a nice Canadian from Edmonton, and we sat together on the plane and hung out in Kuala Lumpur going through customs and getting our bags. His family is originally from Hong Kong, but he's fully Canadian. He's done 24 hour mountain bike races too, so we had lots to talk about! At the end of it all, we said goodbye and he invited me to email if I was ever close to Edmonton so that we could go for a ride. It was so homey! The second flight, from K.L. to Macau, wasn't as social as the first, but I finished the Readers Digest Condensed Book I had picked up in Lovina. That book was the dirtiest, moldiest, crackliest weather-beaten book I have ever read in my life! There were slim pickings for books in Lovina, and I took the old thing home to live out its twilight years - it has now died a peaceful death in a garbage can in the Macau airport.

Once in Macau, I rocked the solo budget travels!

No taxi or airport shuttle for me - I took the packed-full city bus to the hostel neighbourhood where Jon and I stayed last time - it was an adventure! I wasn't sure whether I was even on the right bus, and the driver didn't speak English, but he enlisted the help of a young student, and I was indeed going the right direction. I was the only whitey on the bus, and everyone was SOO helpful! The other passengers showed me where to put my bag, helped me put my pack back on when it was time to get off the bus, and were really concerned that I get off at the right stop. They showed me where to take the bus to the ferry terminal tomorrow too. People were really kind.

Macau today is sweltering, and by the time I walked to Jon and my street, I was dripping. I made a choice of character over comfort though, and headed for the non-air-conditioned San Va Guesthouse. Here's a quote from the Lonely Planet site about it - you can see why I chose it:

If you've ever dreamed of staying in a street where part of an Indiana Jones movie was shot, in a place that is an (unofficial) old brothel, then the San Va is for you. It's also about the cheapest and most charismatic lodging in town.

The San Va occupies a couple of very old terrace houses at the end of Rua Felicidade, otherwise known as the Street of Happiness because it was once wall-to-wall knocking shops. Many of the buildings retain their red doors and window shutters, even if the flesh trade has long since moved on to larger hotels. The San Va is undoubtedly historic but it's totally devoid of luxury. Instead, you get character in spades. The 1st-floor reception was, an English-free zone, and the wizened old receptionist responded best to fingers - one for a single, two for a double. Helpfully, though, an English-Cantonese cheat sheet was taped to the counter. The rooms are small with wafer-thin walls - we liked room 205, with a balcony. Bathrooms are rudimentary, and prices vary for internal facilities or shared - hot water is at a premium.

I'll take some photos of the San Va for you all later tonight and tomorrow. What a place!

After settling in to my room, I set off in search of food, and hopefully, an English menu to go with it. I found both at the restaurant where Jon and I ate last time - Dragon Mama. I ate a fine meal of curried duck noodles washed down with a Pocari Sweat (Asia's answer to Gatorade). Ahhh....

Right now I'm sitting in a sketchy internet cafe at the top of my street. Last time Jon and I were here walking through we quickly saw that there are no family filters on the computers in this all-hours establishment, if you know what I mean. I scanned the streets for other options and found none, so here I am. It's not too late yet though, so I think the internet activity is still "PG-13" at this hour.

I'm planning to eat a gelato - I passed a shop on my way here - and enjoy the Macau evening. It's hot, and my room, dating as it does from the 1930's, has no a/c. I will stay out and stroll for a while, and maybe go down to the central plaza Jon and I discovered last time.

It's great to be here - I'm really enjoying the change of scene from Bali, and the adventure of a new place once again.

I'm on my way home, and making the most of my long journey!